That Sapa is not worth it, that it is an overly touristy area, and that it is absurd to waste 2 nights on the train to see the northern region. This is something that surprises me greatly when I hear a traveller preaching about the area. When I approach and ask what their experience has been, the answer is predictable: “I read it on the Internet”. Clearly, tastes differ and everyone sees what they want to see, but I believe they are completely mistaken. This post is based on my personal opinion, with no intention of criticising other people’s views.
So, if you are also interested in visiting the Sapa region in Vietnam, at OneMoreDestination we offer different travel packages where you will find various options to visit this region and enjoy its neighbouring provinces.
I sincerely believe that the northernmost area, whether Sapa, Ha Giang, or any other neighbouring province, should be a must-see stop for anyone visiting Vietnam. The rice terraces, the charm of its villages, and discovering some of the 54 ethnic minorities in the surrounding area who, according to legend, were born from the love between the fairy Au Co and the dragon king Lac Long Quan. More than enough reasons to begin this adventure.
In this case, I will focus on Sapa, as it is the best-known place, and in upcoming posts I will introduce other provinces that are also interesting. The overnight train experience is only the beginning of a stage you will remember forever, within a trip that is already unforgettable.
Travel by train to discover Sapa!
Anyone who has not previously experienced long journeys in Asia may encounter certain limitations in terms of transfers, comfort, and facilities. Once you have travelled by train in India and China, it feels like an incomparable luxury—like a moving 5-star hotel. Several companies operate the route. The most demanding travellers will opt for the Victoria train, which offers every luxury detail, albeit at an excessive price (in my view, you will not arrive any sooner either…). I believe that options such as Fanxipan or Livitrans are more than adequatefor everyone. Each offers 3 categories: third class, with wooden benches that will leave you aching after the 8-hour journey; soft seats, which are a budget solution although not very comfortable; and 4-berth cabins, without a doubt the best option. The price of the latter is around USD 80 for both journeys in a shared cabin and, logically, double if you want a private cabin for 2 people.
Timetables vary depending on the train you take. With little difference between them, departure is usually around 20:30 and arrival in Lao Cai around 6:00 AM.
As I mentioned, the arrival point is Lao Cai, not Sapa. Once we arrive, a crowd of cars, buses, and motorbike riders approach you to offer a transfer to Sapa, most of them with prior bookings.
There are countless villages around Sapa to explore, and they are not entirely easy to find. Hiring a guided route around the area is not a bad idea. In this case, we have it easy. Bella, my wife, is a Spanish-speaking Vietnamese guide in Vietnam and knows the area like the back of her hand, so I relax and, for once, let myself be guided. In addition, we share the experience with good friends who have just arrived from Barcelona for their holidays, Montse and Raúl, and they are eager to explore the area. Upon arrival, we head straight to Bac Ha, an hour’s drive from Lao Cai. The place is famous for its Sunday ethnic market. It is the most important in the area and, although it is possible to find other markets on other days of the week in other villages, it is worth aligning your visit to Sapa with the Sunday market. Bac Ha is predominantly home to the Flower H’mong, whom you will recognise instantly by their striking clothing. Everything is bought and sold there, from local handicrafts to water buffalo. It is enjoyable to spend a couple of hours and stroll around the market. We wander around the area for a while and take the car back to Sapa. On the way back, 2 hours of driving await us to the town of Sapa, the epicentre of our stage.
Which villages or ethnic groups are the most spectacular to visit?
The most representative places in the surrounding area are: Cat Cat, which you reach after a fairly long walk from Sapa; the Lao Chai – Y Linh Ho – Ta Van route, a somewhat touristy trek but one that loses none of its charm; Su Pan, home to the Zao ethnic group; and Ta Phin, where the Red Zao live.
And speaking of the different ethnic groups, in Sapa you can find, above all, Black H’mong, without a doubt the most cheerful and approachable of all the minorities. You will recognise them by their dark clothing and long hair. You will also meet the Red Zao women, with their characteristic red headscarf on their shaved heads. With a much stronger temperament, it is sometimes possible to witness minor, harmless altercations between these two ethnic groups, as nobody in the Sapa area has any particular affection for the Red Zao.
A much less well-known place and, in my opinion, spectacular, is the Ma Tra area. Halfway between Lao Cai and Sapa, it is an overlooked area for most guided tours and independent travellers. A perfect opportunity to visit it. It is a village with indescribable landscapes and welcoming, smiling people—something that leaves a lasting impression given their very basic living conditions.
What is the best time to visit Sapa?
For anyone considering going to Sapa, I recommend summer as the season with the most spectacular views, thanks to the intense green of the rice fields; or the months of April and May, when the rice terraces are prepared for planting and are perfect mirrors for the surrounding mountains. From November to February, as far as landscapes are concerned, it loses quite a lot, as the rice fields are left rather bare after the harvest and much of the spectacle is gone.
In any case, whenever I am asked about an itinerary in Vietnam, I recommend, whenever possible, visiting this area. Whether for its landscapes or for the mystery of its inhabitants, a trip to Vietnam is not the same if you do not get to know its ethnic minorities.
